RV appliances consume more electricity, at START UP, as they did after the race start. For example, can pull a 15,000 BTU AC 14 to a maximum of 16 amps to start and once it reaches the compressor can operate at only 12-13 amps. So the first problem is two AC may require 32 amps from a 30 amp. If you have anything else at the time, as well as the fridge, coffee machine etc., may be only 20 or 25 amps available.
For two roof AC running and be able to use otherDevices usually requires a 50 amp system. The 30 amplification systems, some manufacturers use energy management systems, which is AC first start, and once operational, the second time. Then, when you turn on another device and the system detects it automatically raises an overload of alternating current, has enough power to start again for him.
If they do both at the same time shore power would be about 26 amperes andDepending on the number of 12-volt devices you were using the converter you could with the remaining 4 amps, use it in you can something else in the RV results. Another problem is when the voltage drops at each campsite, can create additional problems. Usually when there is enough energy to damage an air conditioner will occur during the startup phase.
A better solution would be for your motorhome, 13,500 BTU units in the front and a much smaller like 8300 BTU for userear of the RV. Some of the new AC units require much less energy to run. An 8,300 BTU unit only uses 8 amps versus 13 or 14. This would allow 21,800 BTUs to cool the RV rather than one 15,000 BTU AC trying to cool the RV.
Properly managing the amps being used in your RV can extend the life of your electrical system and appliances.
Happy Camping!
Mark
Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101
